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City Life

Buenos Aires Lights Up!

In October, 2006, a new smoke free law went into effect that made all bars and restaurants less than 100 square meters smoke free. Larger establishments are permitted to have a designated smoking area. For areas of interest read the below.

Cabildo: Bolívar 65. Designed by Jesuit architect Andrés Blanqui in 1580, this was the first government building in the city of Buenos Aires at the time it was founded. As time went by, it underwent many changes and renovations from its original construction. It is now a museum called "Museo Histórico Nacional del Cabildo y la Revolución de Mayo" where a collection of old weapons are displayed, as well as medals and garments from the time of the independence (1816). It is open from Tuesday to Friday from 12:30pm to 7pm, and Sundays from 3pm to 7pm.

Government House or Casa Rosada (Pink House) Balcarce 50. This building houses the Executive Power. It was built in 1580 and after many renovations and with the cooperation of Italian architect Francisco Tamburini, the facade was reconstructed and given an Italian French look. During the presidency of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, towards the end of the XIX century, the building was painted pink, based on the idea of  combining the colors of the two political sectors at the time -red for the federals and white for the unitaries-, and the resulting color was pink, hence its popular name of "Casa Rosada” (Pink House). The Granaderos, an elite army group with colorful uniforms, guard the building.

Cathedral: Av. Rivadavia and San Martín. This neoclassical cathedral was built in the XVIII century and is the resting place of Liberator General José de San Martín's ashes. San Martín was one of the most important heroes in the history of Argentina. He led the battles against Spanish armies that resulted in the country's independence. Open 7 days a week.

May Pyramid (Pirámide de Mayo): Plaza de Mayo. It dates from the 25th of May of 1811 and was the first monument built in Buenos Aires commemorating the revolution of 1810. It was later covered with bricks increasing its size and adding a statue representing the "Republic" on the top, and near the base it was surrounded by agriculture, commerce, science and art related sculptures. The original pyramid is in perfect conditions and is located in the inside of this one.

May Park (Plaza de Mayo): Balcarce & Rivadavia. The Plaza de Mayo is the country's political center. It is located between the  Cabildo and the Casa Rosada, and has witnessed political and social demonstrations as well as national celebrations.

May Avenue (Avenida de Mayo): This avenue has been and still is the stage of social marches and political rallies since it was designed at the end of the 19th century. Along its way there are beautiful sumptuous buildings with big domes as well as artistic iron-works, lion images and other forms of art.

Tortoni Coffee House (Café Tortoni): Avenida de Mayo 829. This Art Nouveau building was built in 1858, and it houses one of the oldest literary cafes in the city and where tango and jazz bands still play at night. Personalities such as Benito Quinquela Martín, Molina Campos, Raúl González Tuñón, Alfonsina Storni, Jorge Luis Borges, Baldomero Fernández Moreno, Roberto Arlt, José Ortega y Gasset among many others, have frequented this place.

General Post Office Av. Leandro N. Alem y Av. Corrientes. This classic French style building was designed by French architect Norbert Maillar and inaugurated on 1928. The recently renovated interior still houses the original equipment used for customer service as well as very valuable vitreaux and a series of sculptures by M.Fiot, M.Chirico and paintings by Bernaldo de Quirós and Lola Frexas.

Palace of Congress (Palacio del Congreso): Av. Entre Ríos, between Hipólito Yrigoyen and Av. Rivadavia. This building houses the Argentine Congress (Chambers of Deputies and Senators). The building was designed by Italian architect Víctor Meano and it was inaugurated in 1906. Its exterior is Greek-Roman, with a coating of white marble, Corinthian columns and decorated edges.

Two Congresses Park (Plaza De Los Dos Congresos): Av. Entre Rios & Av. Rivadavia. This plaza is comprised of a series of small squares, each one with a unique monument, being the replica of Rodin's "The Thinker" the most famous. Other monuments include the "Monument of the Two Congresses" that stands in the middle of the main square, as well as sculptures of Ricardo Balbín and  Mariano Moreno.

El Molino Coffee House (Confitería El Molino): Av. Rivadavia 1801. This legendary meeting place was designed by Italian architect Francesco Teresio Gianotti and was built between 1914 and 1917. It has a big dome,  slated roofs with golden edges, square glasses and the still shafts of a mill in the exterior. Its lounges gathered personalities of the social, artistic, intellectual and political life and witnessed innumerable displays of civic life and of the institutional evolution of the Republic. The new Confitería del Molino was declared National Historical Monument in 1997, but it is currently closed to the public.

Monumental Tower (Torre Monumental): San Martín y Av. Libertador. This tower is located in the center of the Plaza Britannia renamed Plaza Aeronáutica Argentina. It was built by British residents in commemoration of the centennial of the Revolution of May and was inaugurated on May 24, 1916. The company in charge of its construction was "Hopkins & Gardom" and everything except for the sand and the water, was brought from England. On its main door, it reads "al gran pueblo argentino, los residentes Británicos, cheers, 25 de mayo 1810-1910" (To the great Argentine people, the British residents, health, May 25 1810-1910"). The tower changed its name from "Torre de los Ingleses" (The British Tower) to “Torre Monumental” (Monumental Tower) after the Falklands war in 1982, but people still refer to it as the Torre de los Ingleses.

Kavanagh Building: Florida 1065. This building, designed by the architects Sánchez, Lagos and De la Torre, was the highest concrete structure in South America when it was inaugurated in 1936. It has 32 floors and it is 120 meters high.

Retiro Railway Terminal: Av. Ramos Mejía between Av. Libertador and Av. Antártida Argentina. This is the most important railway station in Buenos Aires and is the point of arrival and departure of more than 30 railway lines as well as a stop for the C subway line. It was built in 1915 by British architect Eustace Louriston Conder.

Plaza San Martín: Square between Av. Santa Fe, Av. del Libertador and San Martin Street. It was known as the "Campo de la Gloria" (Battlefield of Glory) in the early 1800's for being the place where the people of Buenos Aires heroically defended themselves against the British invasion of 1807. This beautiful square has a magnificent landscaping design and among its sculptures and monuments are the "General José de San Martín Monument" and the "Monument Honoring the Soldiers, Sailors and Airmen who died during the Malvinas (Falkland) Islands war. This memorial is made up of 25 black marble plaques with the names those who died in the war (l982). 

Florida Street: This is the city's most famous pedestrian street and an important commercial area where leather clothing, shoes, record stores and numerous newsstands as well as restaurants and cafes light the street day and night. Depending on the time of the day there can be many street artists entertaining tourists with their tango dancing. We recommend that you visit the "Galerías Pacifico" (Florida 753), one of the most elegant shopping centers in the country, where a dome painted by prestigious artist Castagnino, decorates its hall.

Santa Fé Avenue: This is a very modern and commercial avenue focused on shopping. The most renowned stores are located along its way as well as galleries and boutiques.

Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar: Junin 1892, Plaza Recoleta. It was built by the Jesuit monks in 1732 and it is one of the oldest churches in the city.

Recoleta Cemetery: Junín and Avenida Quintana. It was founded in 1822 by the Recoletos monks and it is internationally renowned  for having famous sculptures, tombs and mausoleums of illustrious political figures and Argentine families. Among the sculptures there are numerous works by Lola Mora and among the famous people buried here, are Eva Perón, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, Leandro Alem, Hipólito Yrigoyen, Elpidio González, Juan M. De Rosas, Facundo Quiroga, Bartolomé Mitre and Arturo Ilia, among others. Open 7 days a week.

Recoleta Cultural Center: Junin 1930. This building was built in 1732 and it was, originally, a convent  connected to the Basílica del Pilar. Today, it is a cultural center with 25 auditoriums that accommodates paintings, sculptures and photographs in different exhibitions.

Obelisk: Av. 9 de Julio & Av. Corrientes. This 67 meters high obelisk, designed by Argentine architect Alberto Prebisch,  was built and inaugurated in 1936 and commemorates four historical moments related to the city; each one of them is engraved on the sides of the obelisk: 1. The 4th centennial of the city's foundation by Pedro de Mendoza, 2. The place where the Argentine flag fluttered for the first time. 3. The proclamation of the City as the Federal Capital of the country and 4. The second foundation of the city by Juan de Garay.

Plaza de La República: Intersection of Av. 9 de Julio & Av. Corrientes. The tiny plaza suffered many renovations since it was designed. It is very famous for being the meeting place of many Argentineans for different national celebrations such as the victory of the football national team.

9 de Julio Avenue: This 120 meter (400 feet) wide and 2,600 meter (8,500 feet) long avenue, is considered the widest avenue in the world. There are numerous coffee shops and neon signs along its way, as well as the Obelisk and heavy traffic.

Corrientes Avenue: This avenue lies from East to West and in its intersection with the Avenida 9 de Julio it crosses the Obelisk  Close to this intersection, there is concentration of theaters, book stores, cafes and restaurants.

Lavalle Street: This street concentrates a large number of movie theaters as well as restaurants and cafes that remain open until late hours.

Plaza Lavalle: Viamonte & Talcahuano. Like many other squares in the city, this one was originally a public market in 1822 and after the commercial activities stopped, it was landscaped and named Plaza Lavalle (1878). This green space has a variety of species of plants and trees, as well as the fountain "La Fuente de los Bailarines" which depicts two ballet dancers and it honors the dancers killed in an accident in 1971. Across the street from the Plaza, stands the Court of Justice Building whose construction started around 1905

Colón Theater: Cerrito 608. This theater was inaugurated on the May 25, 1908 and is the most important lyric theater in Latin America. Its facade shows strong influences of Italian renaissance and the interior's dome was painted by Raúl Soldi (world renowned Argentine artist) in 1966. Its schedule includes opera, ballet and classical music concerts and it also houses the Ballet School where famous dancers like Julio Bocca, Maximiliano Guerra and Paloma Herrera attended.

Plaza Constitución: Av. Caseros & Lima. This was the place of the city's fruit market in 1859.  Nowadays, its the passage of thousands of porteños who arrive at the Constitución Railway Station from the suburbs.

San Telmo: This neighborhood was populated by aristocratic families towards the end of the 19th century. After the yellow fever the big mansions that belonged to high class families, became squats or "conventillos" where large numbers of people lived. Nowadays, its a neighborhood with narrow streets, colonial patios and with a bohemian smell in the air. There are art schools and arts and crafts fair as well as tango-show places.

El Viejo Almacén: Balcarce y Av. Independencia. This old "Country Store" dates back to 1798, but it wasn't until 1969 that Edmundo Rivero made it the "Temple of Tango“. The biggest names in this genre like Aníbal Troilo, Osvaldo Pugliese and Roberto Goyeneche, among many others, have played and sung under this roof. The interior was recently renovated and it now holds tango shows seven days a week where the classic tangos like "Caminito", "El día que me quieras" and "Mi Buenos Aires Querido" are played. while enjoying a  delicious dinner.

Canto al Trabajo Sculpture: Av. Paseo Colón & Av. Independencia. This sculpture, done by Rogelio Yrurtia, symbolizes the work effort expressed by 14 bronze workers who drag a large stone.

Block of Lights (Manzana de las Luces): Perú 272. In colonial times, this block housed the first public school, university and library, hence the name "Block of Lights". During the Spanish ruling the school was called "Real College De San Carlos" and provided education to illustrious personalities like Belgrano, Saavedra, Moreno, Paso, Las Heras, Dorrego and Rivadavia, among others. The magnificent San Ignacio Church, of baroque architecture, was built by the Jesuits and finished in 1722 and it is the oldest church in Buenos Aires. Another attractive site at his location are the mysterious tunnels dug in the XVIII century. It is assumed that they were dug with defensive intentions, but it is not discarded that they may have been dug smuggling. According to some theories, many experts agree that these tunnels linked the Cabildo and/or the Cathedral , with other churches. In the present time, the "Manzana de las Luces" is a cultural center that hold workshops, art exhibitions, theater, movies, and children's shows, as well as a souvenir store. For more information visit  www.manzanadelasluces.gov.ar/historia.html.

San Telmo Market: Defensa 961. This building made by architect Juan Antonio Buschiazzo, opened its doors in 1897 and it is the last of its type in the city. It was originally a community food market but in the present it is mainly an antique and regional product market.

Plaza Dorrego: Defensa y Humberto 1º. This square is considered a "National Historical Place" because on July 9, 1816, a multitude got together to celebrate the independence of the country that was signed in Tucumán. Nowadays, it is the home of “Antiques Fair of San Telmo” held every Sunday from 10am to 5 pm where, among the antique sales, there are street artists performances that entertain tourists as well as locals.

San Ignacio De Loyola Church: Bolívar 225. This is the oldest colonial church in Buenos Aires, built between 1710 and 1734, and famous for having been a place of resistance during the British invasions of 1806.
 

Fragata Sarmiento: Pier 3, Puerto Madero. This ship is the maritime symbol of Argentina and used to be the training ship for Argentine Navy  students during their graduation year. It is currently a museum. Open Hours 2pm-10pm daily.

Puerto Madero: Alicia Moreau de Justo and Av. Cordoba. The original docks and warehouses of the port of the Río de la Plata river were recently renovated and turned into wide, modern and colorful shopping area with movie theaters, restaurants, five star hotels, and top of the line office buildings.

South Riverside Drive (Costanera Sur): Avenida Costanera Sur, by the Rio de La Plata. This recently renovated area is a classic public walk where, on weekends, it gets crowded with families, bikers, joggers, arts and crafts fairs and street artists performances. You can also try eating the classic "choripan" (sausage sandwich) as well as other snacks. We recommend that you walk by the sculpture "Las Nereidas" by Lola Mora.

Caminito: La Boca neighborhood, near the Riachuelo. The famous “Caminito” is a one block long pedestrian street without sidewalks where all the houses are made of metal sheets, painted in different colors and have many windows and balconies. Along the street; arts and crafts vendors, as well a painters and tango dancers show their abilities to visitors and tourists. The name of the street was inspired by a famous tango called “Caminito” written in 1926 by Gabino Coria Peñaloza and Juan de Dios Filiberto.

Parque Lezama: Defensa & Av. Leandro Alem. This park is considered by historians as the place where the first mud-houses were built by Pedro de Mendoza's expeditionaries in 1536. It is now a public green area with fountains and sculptures and where one of the biggest arts and crafts fairs take place on weekends.

Russian Orthodox Church  Av. Paseo Colón and Brasil, across from Parque Lezama. This Muscovite style church was inaugurated in 1904 and  it has five turquoise onion domes with one  cross held by chains. In the facade there are three windows with vitreaux glass art that represent different biblical scenes.

Botanical Garden: Av. Santa Fe 3951. This garden, located in Palermo, was designed by French landscaper Carlos Thays and was inaugurated in 1908. It has numerous statues, fountains, and approximately 7,000 species of plants and trees from all over the world in a 7 hectares of green in the middle of the city. Inside the garden there is a museum, a library, an art-noveau greenhouse and a gardening school.

Japanese Garden: Intersection of Av. Casares & Figueroa Alcorta. It was designed and built by Isakari (engineer) Yatsuo Inomata (painter) in 1979. It is a classic Japanese style site with many trees, plants, artificial lakes and wooden bridges. Admission: $2.

Zoo: Avenidas Sarmiento and Las Heras, Plaza Italia. This 18 hectare zoo was designed by French landscaper Carlos Thays and built in 1874. It was founded by president Sarmiento in 1875 and it now houses a great variety of animal species. It has temple pavilions and replicas of La Venus de Milo and Bachus. The animal cages were constructed in the style of the animals origin. There are more than 300 species of birds, mammals and reptiles. From penguins to tigers,  monkeys and zebras. This is a also good opportunity to see native animals like: alpacas, guanacos, llamas y vicunas. Open Tuesdays through Fridays from 10am to 5pm, Saturdays and Sundays from 10am a 3:30pm. Admission free for children under 13 years old.

Bosques de Palermo: Av. Casares and Av. Libertador. This forest of 25 hectares constitute the city's lung. It has three artificial lakes, a flower haven and many gardens like the famous "Garden of the Poets" where there are sculptures of famous writers like William Shakespeare, Paul Groussac, Alfonsina Storni, Dante Alighieri, Federico García Lorca and Antonio Machado, among others. This is a great place for family walks, exercising, meditation and contemplation of  nature. During summer time it is usually crowded and many weekend events are organized by the city to entertain families and groups of friends. This green area is surrounded by the Avenida del Libertador where main high rise buildings as well as embassies and top level businesses and stores are located.

Racetrack: Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo: Av. Libertador 4105. This racetrack was inaugurated on the May  7, 1876 and it is famous for its design and, of course, for its horse races. It also houses a museum. The "Slippery Horse" (el Caballo Resbaloso) was the name of the horse that won the first race in this race track, before 10,000 spectators.

Galileo Galilei Planetarium: Av. Sarmiento and Av. Belisario Roldán. It was built in 1966 by Enrique Jan and nowadays is the most important channel of astronomic promotion in the country. Laser shows of stars and constellations are projected on the interior of its dome. The first projection took place on December 19, 1966, on the 150th anniversary of the independence. $ 4. Seniors and minors of 5 years free. www.planetario.gov.ar

Monument of the Spaniards (Monumento de Los Españoles: Avenidas Sarmiento and Libertador. Its real name is Carta Magna and the Four Argentine Regions, but it is better known as El Monumento de los Españoles, because it was a gift from the Spanish community. It is made of marble and bronze and the top sculpture represents the "Republic". It was built by sculptor Agustín Querol y Subirats.

Palermo Hollywood: Between Juan B. Justo, Niceto Vega, Dorrego and Paraguay Streets. This area of Palermo neighborhood has taken the name "Hollywood" because there are many TV and film studios and productions companies; and it is also the favorite place for many artists. In the surroundings of the Julio Cortazar Plaza,  aka "La Placita”, there are numerous pubs, restaurants, discotheques, art galleries, design stores and bars that hold alternative theater shows.

Plaza Italia:  Av Santa Fe & Jorge L. Borges. This is a strategic point in the city, where thousands of people come and go via subway, railway, buses, taxis and hundreds of cars. It is a very busy commercial area and it also connects the Sociedad Rural, the Zoo and the Botanical Garden through its square. In the center of the square stands the Garibaldi monument, inaugurated on June 19, 1904.

Statue of Liberty Av. Juramento y  Av. Luis María Campos, Barrancas de Belgrano. This is a small replica of New York City's Statue of Liberty built by French artist Bertholdi.

North Riverside Drive (Costanera Norte): Avenida Costanera. By the Río de la Plata, near the aeroparque, there can be found the famous restaurants or “Carritos" (small carts). This name is based on the fact that in old times there were carts driven by horses that sold food in this area. Today, these "carritos" are a number of beautiful restaurants that sell the best argentine meat as well as international food.

Plaza Miserere: Av. Rivadavia & Av. Pueyrredón. This was the meeting place of the troops who fought to reconquer  the city occupied by the British in 1806, and also where the troops of Liniers were defeated during the second British invasion in 1807. In the center of the square stands  Bernardino Rivadavia's mausoleum, built in 1932. This area is now known as "Plaza Once".

Mataderos Fair: Av. Lisandro de La Torre and Av. De Los Corrales, Mataderos neighborhood. This fair represents the cultural roots of Argentina. It was initiated in 1986 and it includes arts and crafts, regional foods (empanadas, home-made wine and locro - corn & meat), as well as tango and folk dances. There are also horse ring races, and other genuine regional activities. Sundays and Holidays from 11am to 8pm, highly recommended.

Restaurant Guide

Cafe Havana on Buenos Aires, Argentina.

If you're not vegetarian, you will want to try asado (beef/steak barbecue). In addition, if you want to try the meat specialties on offer, you should go to a parrilla, one of those are restaurants that specialize in roasted meats. There are fancy expensive parrillas, and more simple ones. Everybody eats a lot of meat here and the way that it is prepared makes it very tasty. The bife de lomo (tenderloin) is unbelievably tender in comparison to US beef and is more reminiscent of European cuts.

The Italian and Spanish food are almost native here, as the cultural heritage heralds in great part from these two countries. Other popular meals are pizzas and empanadas (traditional meal, small self-contained pastries, stuffed with various ingredients; the traditional one is the meat empanada), you will find it comes in many varieties. They are quite a popular home delivery or takeaway/takeout option.

The pizza is excellent in Buenos Aires, due to the Italian immigrant heritage. Pizza comes al molde (cooked in a pan, usually medium to thick crust), a la piedra (baked in a stone oven, usually thin to medium crust), and a la parilla (cooked on a parilla grill, very thin, crispy crust). Many people say that Guerrin is the best place to eat Pizza in Buenos Aires

The Café Tortoni on Ave. de Mayo is famous in its own right; it is an old, classic and luxurious cafe. There is also a pool hall; buy a token (ficha) from a waiter for 2 pesos (0.5 euros). Coffee is 4 pesos (1 euro). They also have a tango show twice a week for around 25 pesos. You must book in advance.

La Biela is another very nice cafe, located near the Recoleta cemetery.

One incredible and typical Argentinian kind of "cookie", is the alfajo, which basically consists of two round sweet biscuits joined together with a sweet jam, generally dulce de leche (milk jam, akin to caramel), covered with chocolate, merengue or something similarly sweet. It's just delicious and can be easily found in any kiosko (the Argentine convenience store). The peaked chocolate forms of this cookie (biscuit) that are sold at Havanna coffee shops, are considered by Argentinians to be the best dulce de leche and you can buy them separately or by the dozen in a lovely box. The Havanna coffee shops are found all over Argentina (check their site to get the exact addresses) and are just fantastic . Don't forget to try their coffee and the other kinds of candies they sell. If you would like to take some Havanna chocolates back home at the end of the trip, they are available at the airport for the same cost as the coffee shops.

If you can read some Spanish, ElCuerpoDeCristo is a blog/wiki/forum about food, with most users in [Argentina]. There's a short list of recommended restaurants in Buenos Aires. If you can't read Spanish, you could write us: we are willing to exchange foreign eatable goods for food tips in Argentina]. 

Budget

There are a lot of al paso (walk through) places to eat; you eat standing up or in high chairs at the bar. Meals vary from hot-dogs (panchos), beef sausages (chorizos, or its sandwich version choripán), pizzas, milanesas (breaded fried cutlets), etc. Don't forget to indulge also in the perennially popular mashed squash - it is delicious and often comes with rice and makes a full meal in itself. It is perfect for vegetarians and vegans to fill up on.

Mid-range

You can go to a huge variety of small restaurants, with cheap and generous servings, most notably the ones owned by Spanish and Italian immigrants. There are also many places which offer foreign meals, mostly Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Arabic, Spanish, and Italian.

• Marini Buffet, Santa Fe at Scarabrini Ortiz. Some would say its one of the best buffets in the world and not to be missed. Steaks, Pork Ribs, Sushi, Pasta, Pizza, Pastries, Dessert, Cheese and Fruit. $12.

• Las Cholas, Arce 306, ☎ 4899-0094. Great parrilla specializing in Northern Argentine found in Las Cañitas. The rooftop seating upstairs is a great environment. Don't expect to see many tourists here, just a lot of Porteños out for a three hour weekend meal. Try the Humita (made with mashed corn, cheese and spices) and Tamales (a sort of flour with minced beef) or anything off of the parrilla is great. Do not skip dessert. $10.

• Cumana, Rodriguez Peña 1283 (w/ Santa Fe), ☎ 4813-9207. Native argentinian food, tamales, empanadas, different stews. They also have mate w/ toasts in the afternoon. It's usually crowded with young people. Prices are really cheap (tamales 6$, stews 6-8$, 1lt beer 8$) 15$.

• Guerrin (pizza), Corrientes 1368, ☎ 4371-8141. Go for a great pizza in a really noisy environment 20$.

• El Farol, Estado de Israel 4488 (y Rocamora), ☎ 4866-3233. "Typical argentinian food": spanish + italian + meat. Very high quality. 30$.

Splurge

The most expensive and luxurious restaurants are found in the Puerto Madero zone, near downtown, heading to the River Plate. Sometimes they are worth the price, sometimes not. Fixed price menus (three courses) can be had with drink and coffee for 25 pesos (approx. 6.25 euros); these restaurants have outside seating areas with excellent views of the dársenas, the Fragata Sarmiento and the old European-style warehouses. But the nicer places in terms of decoration, food and personality are mostly based on Palermo Viejo, Palermo SOHO or Palermo Hollywood neighborhoods.

• Siga la Vaca A must-visit restaurant in Puerto Madero. You eat for about 31 pesos and get unlimited salad, pasta, meat, and bottled water. Also included in the price are one bottle of red wine and one dessert per person. All cab drivers seem to know where it is.

• Le Restó, Montevideo 938, ☎ 4816-6711. Maybe the best restaurant in Buenos Aires, out of the fashion "palermo soho/hollywood/bronx" district. Extremely good quality, they have lunch everyday and dinner on thursday and friday. Call to reserve, since it's really small (just 8 tables). There're 5 menus, vegetarian, white meat, fish and red meat (3 steps for 55$-75$)

• Rodizio, Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 838 (Puerto Madero), ☎ 43343638, [9].

Drink

The main areas to go out are: Puerto Madero, close to the Casa Rosada, renovated harbour full of restaurants, some hotels and nice for a walk. Safe during the day and night. Recoleta area close to the famous cemetery, restaurants, bars, cinema complex, used to be trendy, now mainly for tourists. Palermo SoHo and Palermo Hollywood, full of trendy stores, restaurants, and bars; young and trendy, nice for a walk, eating and drinking. Palermo Las Cañitas is another nice area close to the Polo stadium.

Buenos Aires has a popular cafe culture.

• Cafe Tortoni Avenida de Mayo 829 between Piedras and Tacuari. Opened in 1858. The hot chocolate is incredible.

• Confiteria Richmond Florida 468 between Lavalle and Corrientes. Mentioned in Graham Greene' The Honorary Consul. Opened in 1913. It has been modified.

• La Biela Quintana 596 nand RM Ortiz. Luxurious. You can sit outside underneath a huge ancient rubber tree for a little bit extra.

• Confiteria Ideal is ancient and less modified. It is located on Suipacha.

• The unidentified cafe on the corner of Uriarte and Honduras in Palermo viejo (towards Santa Fe) has an incredible European ambiance with good food and lots of newspapers and magazines to read. Also try the community centre across the street named "Club Eros" that serves great lunches and dinners for ridiculously low prices (expect to pay 6 pesos for a menu including steak, salad, glass of wine).

• "La Violeta" is also a lovely cafe, a bit off the beaten (tourist) path but you can take the oldest subway line in the city, Linea A, to get there. Well worth the trip.

You may want to try lágrima, a "tear" of coffee on a cup of milk.

Try mate: You can buy a mate in any Coto or Norte (these are the names for two of the many supermarket chains available, like K-Mart or Wal-Mart; anyway, this last one you can find in Buenos Aires as well) for 3-5 pesos (0.75 to 1.25 euros) and then a metal or bamboo "straw" (called a "bombilla") for around the same. Don't forget the yerba, the actual "tea" you drink; an excellent brand is Nobleza Gaucha, "Taragui", or "Rosamonte". Anyway, ask a local to help you in preparing and drinking the mate, since it's not as easy as it seems. Many visitors take mates as a gift when they go away and they become big fans (locals tend to drink it bitter (amargo), but foreigners generally like it sweet (dulce)). Outside the country, you can find yerba in Argentine stores in big cities like New York, Madrid, London, Paris, Miami, Tel-Aviv, and others.

Clubs & nightlife

For many, Buenos Aires has the best nightlife in the world, a great variety of bars, clubs and discos, that are opened until late hours (6am or 7am). For more info on open clubs, check the city government official webpage.

Try the Niceto Club, Cocoliche, Pacha, Opera bay, Amerika, Bahrein, Mint, Lost, and El Living. Other popular hangouts are the omnipresent Irish pubs. You can try Kilkenny´s in Reconquista 600 in the Retiro area or The Shamrock in Rodriguez Peña 1200, in the Recoleta area. These places are very popular with local and foreign crowds. El Milion, in Parana, between Santa Fe and Marcelo T. de Alvear is a very nice upscale bar. It is located in a refurbished petite palais from the beginning of the century. It is also very popular with foreigners.

Sonoman Bar y Resto Fitz Roy 1655 @ Honduras - Pretty hip and trendy bar with loads of Argentines dancing and drinking the night away till around 6am on weekends (maybe later who knows). There's a restaurant as well as an outside area, but you can smoke inside and outside, so prepare! Bartenders are nice and check out the disco ball, it's not like any other. Music is a mixture of beloved 80s and dance. The drinks ain't cheap either! The